A small (20 cover) intimate restaurant located in the Artist Residence Hotel in Regency Square. The constantly changing seasonal tasting menus at The Set restaurant in Brighton are the works of chefs Dan Kenny and Semone Bonner, former head chefs of the Ginger group of restaurants.
Unsurprisingly, The Set offers a choice of (usually three) set menus of food. These cost somewhere between £27 and £35 per head and can be accompanied by similarly priced matching wine flights.
As seems to be the trend – it can be noted too at 64 degrees in Brighton – the menu is a list of ingredients, which hint at the dish to offer the element of surprise.
The overall experience is fun and quite playful, right up to the final moment when diners are given a brown paper bag of homemade sweets to take home.
If you want some additional pre-or post-dinner playful drinks, the Cocktail Shack, (adjoining bar to the hotel), serves up some incredible cocktails laced with items such as sweets or smouldering cinnamon.
Visited: December 2015
The element of surprise with the menu
The open kitchen format allowing you to watch the chefs at work while you dine
Surprising treats in addition to the food on the menu such as an amuse bouche of a deconstructed Cesar salad accompanied by a gourmet chicken nugget
The take away sweets weren’t to my liking (although admittedly they spent the night in my handbag instead of the fridge where they should probably have been kept).
I personally really enjoyed my experience at the Set. It was playful, delicious and memorable.
Tim was less impressed; in hindsight I think he should have ordered the same menu as I as he preferred the dishes that came for me but that is always a risk with a minimally described menu.
My braised beef, beetroot, treacle & cheddar was incredible and by far our favourite of everything we tasted.
The accompanying wine flight allowed me to discover a new personal favourite white wine (The oaky Septima Obra Chardonnay), which we later found can be bought locally for around £10.
I would recommend this restaurant but I fear it will difficult to keep things new and exciting here. It offered an undeniably fun experience that would be hard to replicate time and time again.
Overall rating: 8/10
Cost of food: £30 per head plus an additional £22 per head for wine if desired.
33 Regency Square,
Brighton BN1 2GG